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Tech Support

Aquarium Tech Information... this page has (4) sections:
  1. Common Equipment Problems
  2. Tank Maintenance Tips & Resources
    1. Getting started
    2. Water Testing
    3. Water Changes
  3. End-of-Year Clean up
  4. MSDS PDFs.
     DCL Staff Calendar  (Check on our availability for trouble-shooting or class visits.)

Don't Panic!

Common Equipment Problems.
  • The Black FLUVAL filter cannister is making a loud/rattling noise or is hot to the touch:  This is an indication that water is not moving through the filter pump properly.
    1. Locate the filter outflow nozzle just beneath the surface of the water in your tank.   It is attached to black, ribbed tubing coming from the filter canister.   Check to see if water is flowing out by putting your finger in front of it.
      1. If water is NOT flowing:    
        1. Unplug your filter and let it cool down for 15 minutes.
        2. Check to make sure that any screening over your outflow nozzle is clear of debris.  Remove it and rinse off as needed. (Once trout are large enough, these can be permanently removed.)  
        3. Check the water intake for the filter (at the end of the long plastic tube going to the bottom of your tank).  If there is screening around the intake, make sure it is free of debris.  Remove it, rinse off and replace.  (All parts of the intake cage can be removed and replaced by hand.  You won't break it!) 
        4. After 15 minutes, restart your filter.  First, locate the gray/red gently manual pump handle on the top of the filter canister.  Pump it up and down several times.  Water should flow out of the outflow nozzle when you pump.  Plug in the filter, and evaluate.  A few extra manual pump strokes may be necessary.  
        5. If filter is still rattling, or not pumping water, you have a broken impeller or impeller shaft.  This is an easy fix.  If you have extra parts provides, you can replace yourself, or call us for a trouble-shooting visit.  Leave the filter unplugged.
      2. If water is flowing: follow the steps above.  If problem continues, call DCL.
  • FLUVAL Filter cannister is making a hissing/sighing noise on and off:  you have a worn gasket.  Another easy fix!  The gasket is a rubber band that fits around the motor housing, and seals the filter when you close up the canister. It needs to be removed, cleaned and lubricated with oil.  Just let us know.  You may continue to run the filter until it is fixed.
  • CHILLER is not functioning properly:  For a variety of potential malfunctions, the first thing to do is to power down the unit (unplug or switch off) and wait 10 seconds before restarting.  This reset may do the trick;  if not, call us.  (Your aquarium will not warm to dangerous temperatures for quite some time.)
  • CHILLER is on, but water in tank is not getting cold enough:  The chiller's "Pre-filter" may be clogged.  This is a black foam cylinder attached to the submersible pump in your aquarium.  If it has a lot of debris stuck to it, or appears to be squeezed together, it needs cleaning.
    1. Follow the black cord from the submersible pump to the power supply and unplug it.
    2. Pull the whole unit toward the surface, slide the foam filter cylinder off its frame and rinse it out.  
    3. Replace the clean foam filter, PLUG THE PUMP IN.
    4. You should notice an immediate increase in water flow through the chiller system.  Your aquarium should begin to cool over the next 15-20 minutes.  
  • BLUE AIRPUMP is buzzing or there are no bubbles coming from airstone at the bottom of the aquarium.  
    1. To address noise, shift the pump away from any other surfaces.  Also make sure that the rubber feet on the bottom of the pump are in place.  
    2. If no bubbles are rising from the airstone, follow the clear airline from the airstone to the blue air pump.  Make sure all connections are in place.  Occasionally, they can be pulled apart, and can be easily reconnected by hand.
    3. If neither of these options helps, unplug the airpump and call DCL.  Your fish will be fine for several days.
 2. Tank Maintenance Tips & Resources:

Getting Started. Hatching-Phase tips: During this life-stage, your alevins will produce limited quantities of waste. The waste, along with decomposing egg shells or dead eggs, will help beneficial bacteria colonies get started in your filter. Add the recommended bacterial supplement at least on a weekly basis.
  • This is the best time to establish daily observation routines in your classes so that kids get accustomed to knowing what to look for- water temperature steady, pH, clarity, number and activity-level of the fish, all equipment running smoothly. 
  • Record all observations in aquarium binder and/or online.
  • Have your students to bring in gallon jugs.  Fill these jugs and allow the water from your tap to age.  In the event that you need to change out water, you should have 8 gallons (or about 20% of your aquarium volume) ready to go!

Water Testing:   Your aquarium binder should have printed water testing instructions, and your test kit will have picture-instructions.   Remember, you are using the water chemistry tests to assess the presence of beneficial bacteria.  Once your trout begin to produce waste, you should soon see a slight rise in ammonia levels associated with fish waste.  However, you will know that the beneficial bacteria are becoming established when nitrate levels also begin to rise and ammonia levels have a corresponding decrease.  The bacteria are turning ammonia to nitrite (nitrifying) and then nitrite to nitrate (denitrifying) the waste.  
  • If ammonia or nitrite levels rise above 1 ppm for an extended period, contact us.  Reducing or temporarily pausing your feeding schedule is a good first step that you can take right away.  Depending on the conditions in your aquarium, additional filter media or aquarium cleaning/gravel vacuuming can also quickly reduce these waste products.
  • Nitrate levels will steadily rise during the year.  Without the presence of plants in our aquarium, the nitrogen cycle is incomplete, and there is no place for nitrate to go.  This is not a threat to your trout, but will high levels will encourage algae growth, odor, etc.   The only way to reduce nitrate is with partial water changes (see below.)   

Instructional Video Links for students:   
          Ammonia Test: 
Water Testing Links & Materials


 External Trout In The Classroom Help Pages: 

Water Changes;  This is the best/only way to reduce NITRATE levels, but may be done at any time, if you are experiencing algae growth or odor problems.  Simple to do, but requires a little preparation.
  • Find a good water source:  Well water is a good choice, if you can get to it before any disinfection or softening treatment.  Otherwise, use tap water and plan to age it for at least three days in open containers to allow chorine to dissipate.  (Water condition can be used, but isn't generally needed.)  DO NOT use stream water.  It will come with it's own live biology, which isn't bad, but can introduce a host of complications to keeping your aquarium stable.
  • Plan to change out about 1/3 of your aquarium's water at a time.  This would be 10-15 gallons.  If you are changing water for the first time, in response to high nitrate (or other) levels, anticipate needed to do two changes before improvements are measurable.   Hardware store 5 gallon buckets or gallon jugs all work fine.  (Clean, square cat little buckets are ideal, and acually fit perfectly into the aquarium.)
  • Procedure:  Make sure you know how much water you have available to add to the tank.  Use a large container (or siphon) to remove that amount of water from the aquarium.  Keep the final contain on hand.  Add your fresh water.  Top off with that old tank water you've saved if needed.  

3.  End of Year Cleanup   

At the end of the year, it is important to clean your aquarium to ensure a successful next year. Your equipment will also have a much longer life. Here are a few pointers:

Aquarium Tank
  1. Then turn off the electrical pumps, chillers, filters, etc.  Disconnect tubing.
  2. Empty the tank almost all the way, by your usual method--many people like to use the electric pump to do this work.  Be careful not to suck gravel into the pump, however!
  3. Wipe down the inside of the tank and equipment surfaces with white vinegar and a sponge.  Use a scrubby and repeated applications to soften and remove calcium carbonate and algae. 
  4. IF DISINFECTION IS NECESSARY:  Using a solution of 1 part Chlorine bleach (Clorox) and 10 parts water, wipe down the interior and exterior of the tank. Use the 1:10 bleach solution for cleaning out the tubing and all parts exposed to water - soak parts in bleach solution right in the tank.  (Clean tubes using long brushes you can buy at any pet shop- we can reimburse for costs if needed).  CAUTION- DO NOT USE VINEGAR AND BLEACH TOGETHER - THIS CAN BE TOXIC!
  5. Wipe dry with clean cloth, or let air-dry.
  6. If you have any pebbles or gravel in the tank, they should be removed, washed, and dried by laying out on a cloth or towel in the sun or a ventilated area. They can also be sterilized with the Clorox solution, but they also MUST be completely dried.
Aquarium Chiller
  1. Rinse pre-filter sponge on pump thoroughly with water, and let air-dry.
  2. Tip chiller and drain. Using pump or faucet hose, flush chiller with clean tap water to ensure any dirt is washed out of the cooling tank.
  3. Remove dust and lint from all vents on the chiller, with cloth or soft bristle brush.
Filter
  1. Disconnect tubing from filter canister by releasing the AquaStop Valve.  Rinse/clean tubing as appropriate.
  2. Remove the top section of the filter canister (as demonstrated), pour out the water and remove contents (best to do this in a sink or tub- they will be a bit gunky)
  3. Thoroughly rinse out all filter cartridges (filter sponges, charcoal, etc.) with regular water, and dry them in the sun or a well ventilated area. For most filters, it is suggested that you buy new filter cartridges for the following year. You can also use this year’s filters that you rinsed out.
  4. Rinse and wipe out the plastic parts with vinegar OR your 1:10 bleach solution.  Thoroughly air-dry entire filter apparatus.
Air pump, thermometers and other materials:  Disassemble and clean as with other parts, store in boxes and/or in the aquarium.

Storage:  We will retrieve and store materials as needed- however, if you expect to continue with the program in coming year, it is easiest to keep it on site at your school. No particular storage requirements, but try and keep your set-up in a safe, dry location.  DON'T Forget to complete your end of the year survey!!




4. Materials Data Safety Sheets (MSDS's) for each of  the aquarium additives used in this program can be found and downloaded from the website of Aquarium Pharmaceutical Products (API).  The chemicals selected for this program have been evaluated in terms of classroom safety, and are found to pose no sigificant health threat, when stored and used properly.  Specific PDF downloads can be found as follows:

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